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It is so simple. Grow, pick, crush, ferment, bottle it — and the very best part of all, drink it. No other grape variety can match the pure perfection of Riesling. It is a natural beauty that needs no extra glam, no trinkets or baubles, and certainly no masking agents to fully express itself. It’s easy to grow, and doesn’t need a whole lot of coddling in the vineyard or the winemaking process. And, well, it’s awesomely delicious right out of the bottle, or left to age gracefully as it sheds the tautness of youth.

All Riesling needs to be the perfect dinner companion, or that foil for a hot summer’s day, is a nice place to grow. The soil is everything for this noblest of grapes. It likes to let its roots search down deep for nourishment in hard clay and limestone, and mineral rich soils, and will reward with nuances reminiscent of a babbling brook: that wet stone mineral taste that can also display notes of slate, flint and even petrol, as the wine ages.

And, oh my, the flavours — from juicy citrus to peaches and tropical fruit, all delivered in a highly refreshing style due to the electrifying natural acidity that defines this variety. It is what makes it such a versatile and food-loving wine.

It might be stretching things a bit to call it a “raging debate,” but the question of whether New World wines possess the same capacity to age as their Old World counterparts is one which occupies a certain amount of space in the oenosphere. To try and address this conundrum, Germán Lyon, the young winemaker from Chile’s Viña Perez Cruz visited Toronto (and a few other Canadian cities) to conduct a vertical tasting (a tasting of similar wines from different vintages - not a tasting of similar wines standing up) of four vintages of the company’s Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva.

Gathered with a few other vino journos at Toronto’s swank Harbour 60 steakhouse, Germán explained that the Maipo Andes region where Perez Cruz is located some 500 meters above sea level provides an ideal mixture of soil types, drainage and cooling breezes that allows him to, in his words “preserve the identity” of the fruit he harvests and, ultimately, the wines he makes. “I believe the most important factor [when making wine] is to respect the place where the grapes come from, without intervening too much, and leave the grapes to express themselves.”

The four Cabernets we tasted were indeed expressive. Representing the exceptional 2010 vintage, the warm, high-yielding 2009 vintage, the cooler 2006 and somewhat wet 2004 harvest, each managed to retain a certain “signature” or fingerprint that revealed itself as a collage of blueberry, mint and mineral with varying degrees of mocha while at the same time showing off the nuances the vintage and age of the wine brought to the table. The currently available 2010 edition, while still showing some youthful edge was nonetheless very ripe with forward blueberry, mint, earth, tarragon and hints of pepper and vanilla on both the nose and palate. Germán attributed the wine’s structure, depth and power to a cool spring, which, in turn, resulted in a natural lowering of yields.

Hell, no. Of course we don’t need wine critics.

We can all shop for a 20-buck Chardonnay, grab the one with the prettiest label, and hope for the best. Who needs to know which one might be the best value for money? We can keep spending the $20 until we find a bottle we like, right? Side-by-side comparisons? Bah. Just grab and go. And if the one you liked best last week was decent, grab it again. Why shoot for the stars?

Mediocrity is not in my vocabulary. And when we’re talking wine, it doesn’t have to be in yours either. The wine market is too competitive for that nonsense. But you do need to know which bottles to buy. Of that, I’m certain.

The point?

It’s not a level playing field. It’s just as easy to find a horrific $14 red or white as it is to find a perfectly satisfying pour. And I assure you, a lot of wine being sold by the truckload is terrible. And I don’t mean I just don’t personally fancy them. I’m talking out of balance, stalky, hollow, dirty-tasting, or otherwise disgusting. And sadly, even more expensive wines are guilty of these offenses.

Thanks to the Portuguese and the Spanish, Brazil has been growing grapes and making wine from them for well over 500 years. Brazil's humid climate made growing the grapes the Portuguese and Spanish were used to difficult. By the mid-1800s, locals were plantain a hybrid variety called Isabella. Thirty years later, Italian grapes, such as Barbera, Moscato and Trebbiano, were being planted with success. Today, Brazilian grape growers are planting a huge variety, including Chardonnay, Riesling, Cabernet Franc and Merlot.

Because of Brazil's hot and humid climate, grapes are often picked before they ripen in an effort to avoid the rot that can overtake the grapes so quickly. Jancis Robinson states that "Red wines are, inevitably in this climate, relatively light and acid, although there has been some experimentation with new oak." That's not all bad, though. Moët & Chandon have recognized the vitality and possibilities of the Brazilian wine industry. M & C have long established ties there establishing a subsidiary, Provifin, that produces both still and sparkling wine. Chances are you've never tried Brazilian wine. Here are some suggestions for you. Ask for them at your local liquor store, and let me know what you think of them.

Sicily’s nine major wine regions cover just about every part of the island, and good wine is made in all of them. Conditions vary quite dramatically, though; they range from the mountainous and somewhat cooler Palermo region in the northwest to the warmer, lower-lying environs of Ragusa and Syracusa in the southeast. Diverse soils, topography and rainfall often help to produce quite different expressions from the same grape varieties.

Many international grapes thrive in Sicily’s benign conditions, and it was Sicily’s success with well-known classic varieties that put modern Sicilian winemaking on the map. Latterly, a growing number of fine indigenous varieties are restoring themselves to their rightful place. Sicily’s new wave winemakers are enjoying remarkable success with a dazzling array of blends, using both local and international varieties — and there is no shortage of fine single-grape wines.

let’s talk indigenous

The best-known Sicilian red, Nero d’Avola, is named after the town of Avola in the warmer Syracusa region. In nearby Vittorio, Ragusa Province, Nero d’Avola provides the backbone for Sicily’s only DOCG thus far, Cerasuolo di Vittorio. The grape has good body and aging potential. It can also be made in an undemanding, easy-drinking style, and has adapted well when planted in many parts of Sicily.

 

Reif_DinnerUnless you’re an avid winter sport kind of person, I think you’ll probably agree when I say that winter weather makes one think of travelling to get away from the ice and snow. Now I’ve got you dreaming of an escape to warmer climes, right? Forget it. I know a place that’s just as warm (in spirit) with even better food and drink than you’ll find at any southern resort – and at a fraction of the cost. That place is wine country. Seriously.

There was a time when wineries were virtual ghost towns during the winter, even the winemakers headed south. Lately, though, there’s been a kind of awakening, a realization that although the buds might not yet be breaking on the vines, the wine is still flowing abundantly.

I had the opportunity recently to attend the Icewinemakers Dinner at Reif Estate Winery. Reif is definitely among my top five favourite wineries in Niagara. Sure, the wine is great, but what I like best is the people. Everyone on staff, including winemaker Robert DiDomenico and owner Klaus Reif, are accessible, down-to-earth and always interested in good conversation over a glass.

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