Wine Reviews

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It had been a rather hectic week of wining and dining with events every evening for the past five days. But since we are not ones to sit still for very long (or say “no” to yet another dinner tasting), so it was down to Niagara-on-the-Lake’s Reif Estate Winery on October the 22nd to attend its “Bountiful Days of Harvest” evening hosted by winemaker Roberto DiDomenico and catered by local chef Robin Howe.

The idea behind gatherings like this (typically referred to as “winemaker dinners”) is to allow guests to enjoy the ultimate in wine and food pairings in the company of the person (or persons) responsible for creating the good stuff in the glass. Rief holds these events (open to the public) four times a year to celebrate the goings on in the field and in the winery during each season. And being that this was harvest time we were treated not only to some seasonal local fare, but also a couple fresh-out-of-the-fermenter 2011 “nouveau” wines to kick things off.

While the whole nouveau thing may be getting a bit tired for some of us, Reif added a bit of a twist to things by producing both a traditional red Gamay nouveau as well as a white nouveau(a novel nouveau?) under the tarot-themed "The Fool" and "The Hanging Man" labels respectively. The Kerner-based white (available at the winery only in limited quantities) with its fruity/floral aroma and delicately off-dry palate paired nicely with the raw oysters on the half-shell, pancetta and Thai basil wrapped shrimp skewers, and seared sea scallops on a bed of cauliflower chantily topped with a fig, lemon and caper chutney that were circulated around the tasting bar prior to dinner getting underway.

Don't ever say that we here at the Tidings Wine Tasting Club don't challenge you every once in a while. This month's wine comes from England, and has been appreciated worldwide for 120 years. Anyone who's heard of Wincarnis, let alone tried it, deserves a gold star. This is one of those love it or hate it things. It's absolutely huge across much of the world, including Jamaica, Singapore and the US.

Wincarnis, taken from the Latin meaning "meat wine"… Wait, meat? That's because it's a good wine to pair with meat, right? No. At one time, it contained meat extract (a concentrated beef stock, actually). Kerry Allan of Ian MacLeod Distillers says that meat extract hasn't been used in the production of Wincarnis supplied to Canada for many years. In any case, Wincarnis is a British tonic wine. A tonic is anything that's good for what ails you. As to why meat extract was even included in the list of ingredients in the first place probably has something to do with the fact that it's food that helps one maintain good health. Allan agrees: "The original Wincarnis recipe is very old, so we don't know exactly why meat extract was used. However we believe it was to provide medicinal properties due to high iron content." The combination of ingredients in the wine was meant to heal and strengthen. It was consumed by anyone suffering any kind of malady. It was even enjoyed by new mothers as a way to regain their energy and lose weight! Nowadays, it's a popular aperitif or digestif enjoyed simply for its flavour. It tastes like sweet sherry.

Negroamaro is a red grape variety found in Southern Italy, Puglia in particular. Puglia is situated on the heel of the boot. The climate there is typically hot in the summer with temperatures reaching as high as 30°C and winter lows in the 6°C range. They also see upwards of 300 days of pure sunshine. If you could be a grape, isn't this where you'd hope to be growing? Puglia boasts the ideal grape-growing conditions. The grape's name is a compound word: negro is Spanish for black, and amaro is Italian for bitter. Nero is actually the Italian word for black. Given the extensive back-and-forth trade that Southern Italy has seen over its millennial lifespan, I wonder if the the Negroamaro grape was, at some point in time, an import from Spain. Then there's the theory that negro is derived from the Latin nigra and amaro from the Greek, both words meaning "dark".

Negroamaro produces wine that's dark and full-bodied, and is perfect for cellar ageing. It's actually produced some tasty rosés as well. Throughout its history, though, it's been mostly used as a blending wine adding its aromas and flavours of blackberries and plum Malvasia Nera.

This month, I'm proposing that we stray a bit from featuring wine for the Wine Tasting Club. Instead, I think it would be interesting to focus on one of wine's cousins -- a spirit. Eau de vie, translated from French as water of life (which is, perhaps, a subjective endorsement, since, I'm sure, drinking it like water probably wouldn't do a body much good), is distilled from grapes or other fruit, and might be flavoured with tree buds and even maple syrup. It has to be said that the human drive to make alcoholic beverages out of practically anything is truly impressive. As is usually the case when it comes to wine and spirits, we have the monks to thank. It was their resourcefulness, centuries ago, that resulted in this clear, colourless and unsweetened tipple. Check out the recommendations below, then try some for yourself. Tell me your thoughts in the comment box below.

Keep this in mind:

Eau de vie is served in one to two ounce portions, preferably in a small, tulip-shaped glass (although some aficionados suggest using a snifter). Keep the bottle in the fridge. (No, it won't turn into spirit pops.) Pour yourself a pre- or post-dinner drink. Take a moment to inhale the aromas, then take a sip. The eau de vie should have a full mouthfeel and taste like the product from which it's made. The finish should be long and smooth.

I must say, I've been remiss. All the times that I've written up a topic for the Wine Tasting Club, only now do I realize that I have yet to say anything about Cabernet Sauvignon. Both in the wine and web world, this is one grape that refuses to be ignored. I thought about this as I was drinking a glass of 2008 Finca Flichman Cabernet Sauvignon.

According to the Oxford Companion to Wine edited by British wine authority, Jancis Robinson, "Cabernet Sauvignon [is] the world's most renowned grape variety for the production of fine red wine." Well, there you have it. If there's one grape you should get to know, this is it. Cab Sauv is revered the world over for some very good reasons. First, it makes up a significant portion of the wines of Bordeaux. Blended with other grapes grown in the region, it gives wine a beautiful deep, concentrated colour and a hint of chocolate taste. Blending is a great use for it. But, this particular grape demands the spotlight, too. Looking for something a little different? Keep an eye out for wine made entirely from Cab Sauv. Winemakers love it for its structure and malleability. In the hands of a skilled artisan, it will reveal the winemaker's techniques, vintage characteristics and terroir. Here's another reason why this grape is such a hit. It's  easily exportable. Plant it pretty much anywhere and it thrives. Finally, its phenolic concentration is such that Cab Sauv survives long ageing exceedingly well. Miracle grape? Indeed.

Traditionalists, stand back. First came the debate over cork vs screw cap. Now, it's the decanter vs the aerator.

This has happened to you, right? You open up a bottle of wine for dinner only to realize that it should have been decanted half an hour before. Come on, I know it's not just me. Someone less impressed by wine and all its subtleties might wonder, who cares? There's a very good reason to care -- aroma and flavour (ok, two reasons, but who's counting?). Imagine being served a steaming plate of osso buco or chicken and broccoli in peanut sauce that smells faintly of something or other unidentifiable. When you take a bite, there's a noticeable absence of taste. You wonder distractedly (since your mind is now fondly remembering the ham sandwich you ate for lunch) if the chef used water to season the meal. Wine is exactly the same. Given that it's part of the meal, a food group in itself, really, its bouquet should be present, attainable, inspiring … you get the picture. If you've ever enjoyed wine, let's say a Chardonnay, that's had a chance to open up (that is, let its flavour and bouquet nuances come to the fore), you'll understand what I'm going on about. All of a sudden (alright, maybe an hour, give or take) every little nuance of butter, creaminess and minerality comes through. You take a sip and the flavours dance on your palate. But, knowing that wine should aerate isn't going to help your time crunch problem.

Enter Vin-Aire.

This month's Wine Tasting Club is featuring a fairly well-known, but often maligned grape -- Chardonnay. Over the years, it's gone from being a glam grape to a stellar symbol of what can go wrong when wineries come to care more about what's going into their bank accounts than what's going into the bottle. And back again. It's a wonder that it hasn't developed some sort of complex. Come to think of it, maybe it has.

Given its history, I'd wager that Chardonnay probably suffers from a case of multiple personalities. Oaked, unoaked, loved, despised -- this poor grape has seen it all.

Centuries ago, in Burgundy in eastern France, Chardonnay was the child of Pinot and Gouais Blanc. Although the parents were welcomed and appreciated by society's upper crust, the child became the darling of the masses. Eventually elevated from its state of pauperhood, Chardonnay could be found growing in almost any wine-producing country.

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