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Sidelined in Sideways, and picked on like suet at a birdfeeder, California Merlot has been unfairly maligned. In the right hands, Merlot makes a perfectly delicious wine. I tasted an example at Sebastiani Winery in Sonoma, CA, about an hour's drive from San Francisco.

Their 2007 Alexander Valley Merlot is as nimble and elegant as a Porsche Cayman. It takes off quickly with dark cherry on the nose, slips easily into cherry, anise and a rich spiciness, then takes off into a long and satisfying finish. Of course, like the Porsche, this Merlot has a beautiful structure.

The mix is high octane. Bolstered with Petit Verdot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Barbera, this complex Merlot could drive you to drink.

About $30 at the winery. The wine, not the car.

Find out more at MsInk.ca

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