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The Cypress Hills, located in Saskatchewan’s South-West corner, are a bit of a geographic anomaly. Rising 1400 meters above sea level, they are the highest point between the Rocky Mountains in the west and Labrador to the east, and were left largely untouched by the forces of nature which carved the rest of the Prairies from the receding glaciers thousands of years ago. Because of this they are home to many plants found nowhere else on the Great Plains, including the only working vineyard and winery on the Prairies! The town of Maple Creek (just off the Trans-Canada Highway) is considered to be the gateway to the Center Block of the Cypress Hills, and the winery is located 20 km south of the town on Highway 271 on the way to the Fort Walsh National Historic Site (another very interesting place to visit!).

We’re flying high over the turbulent Andes Mountains. The stewardess is serving the last third of the plane as a rushed Spanish voice comes over the loud speaker. I can see the surprise in her eyes as she stops, turns and starts to collect the garbage. It’s the 25th minute of a 50-minute flight and we’re going down. I’m wondering if the onboard snacks will be my last meal. Ten minutes later we’re safely down at Mendoza’s El Plumerillo airport. The stewardess says this is the fastest they’ve ever flown from Santiago to Mendoza. At this point I just want a drink.

Things actually started quite uneventfully a few days earlier, as a number of us arrived in Santiago for a junket to visit Chile and Argentina’s growing wine regions. As we headed for our tour of the city there was an air of enthusiasm. Most of us had delighted in the local wines but only some of us had actually been here before.

“A Katyusha rocket will take out forty vines.” That is just one of the hazards Avi Feldstein, winemaker for Israel’s Segal wines, has to deal with — along with the deer, wild boar and grouse that devour his grapes.

We are standing in the Dovev vineyard, in the Upper Galilee, within sight of a former Hezbollah outpost. To the north, the Lebanese border. Until 2006 Feldstein had to be accompanied by Israeli soldiers whenever he went to tend to his mountaintop vineyard. Ten years ago, he carved out twenty-four hectares of shallow terra rossa soil — the rockiest vineyard in the north of the country — and planted it with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Shiraz, Sangiovese, Ruby Cabernet, Chardonnay and Muscat of Alexandria.

Prince Edward County (PEC), the most-talked about new wine region in Ontario, may be scoffed at as being too intemperate for vines to survive there, but wineries like Norm Hardie, the Grange, Rosehall Run and Long Dog are changing the way we think about winemaking in the cold, cold north.

“The County,” as locals call it, is home to approximately fourteen wineries, fifty growers, 450 to 500 acres of vineyards planted with vinifera, with a few hybrids scattered about. The largest wineries are the Grange of Prince Edward County and Huff Estate Winery at approximately 8,000 cases each annually; the smallest is Sandbanks at 1,200 cases. The region may be small in size but it produces some fabulous wines that have writers raving they’re the best in the country.

The Okanagan has long stolen the thunder of its neighbouring valley to the west, the Similkameen. But all that could soon change. This rugged ranching and former gold-mining region runs northwest from Osoyoos at the southern end of the Okanagan, and it shares with its more famous neighbour the most northerly reaches of the Sonoran Desert. You don’t want to walk the vineyards here in open-toed sandals in case you step on a rattlesnake or a scorpion.

“It is impossible to understand plant life without taking into account the fact that everything on earth is actually only a reflection of what is taking place in the cosmos.” — Rudolf Steiner, the “father” of biodynamic agriculture

If what is going on in Oregon is any indication, the “next big thing” in wine will be about giving back to the vineyard as much as we take from it. I went to Oregon to learn about three different “environmentally friendly” winemaking practices: sustainable, organic and biodynamic viticultures. And although they differ in philosophy and methodology, all three share the same aim: preserving the life of the vineyard in the most natural way possible, firmly rooting the notion of “give and take” in the winemaking equation.

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