Wine Reviews

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Whether it is new, innovative or inventive, Tidings is always on the look out for the food and wine maverick. Every November, we will follow up our Maverick Chefs issue — published in October — with the Mav Wine & Spirits Awards. Focusing on the best in assemblage, the editors and tasters of Tidings laboured perilously — we stained two tableclothes and a shirt — to highlight the finest in a winemaker’s main d’oeuvre. At the same time, we are featuring spirits that have adopted the truest nature of its elements. In essence, we distil the critical facets of wine and spirits and bring them to you, for the final analyse. Please enjoy this year’s selections of Mavs.

Nova Scotia–raised Gina Haverstock caught the wine bug while working at the Jost Vineyards in Malagash, shortly after graduating with a BSc from the University of New Brunswick. Her experience at Jost was life-transforming: she abandoned plans to become a doctor and set her sights on winemaking instead, going on to complete the prestigious program in cool-climate oenology and viticulture at Brock University in Ontario. The energetic Haverstock also managed to earn a sommelier certification through the International Sommelier Guild. She then went on to work in vineyards and wineries of such far-flung places as Hawke’s Bay in New Zealand, Rüdesheim in the Rheingau, the Wachau region of Austria, topping things off with a brief stint in Burgundy.

95 Château Vieux Télégraphe Le Crau 2005, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Rhône Valley, France ($60)

This wine, from both an outstanding vintage and producer in CNP, is truly stunning. It reminds me of the 1998, but with less gritty tannins. There is a mass of red-berry fruits as well as spice, leather and garrigue to be found in the intense, full-throttle offering. The blend is approximately two-thirds Grenache with the remainder being Syrah, Mourvèdre and Cinsault. Drink until 2025.

95 Château Pichon-Longueville Comtesse Lalande 2003, Pauillac, Bordeaux ($100)

How can one not be seduced by this incredible wine? It starts with a black–purple colour, follows with a sexy bouquet (a mix of dark fruits, spice, minerals, chocolate-covered coffee bean and violets) and finishes with a full-bodied yet soft texture. There is so much density that you don’t feel the super-ripe tannins on the extensive finale. Now to 2023.

Not so much starving as hungry. Well, not so much hungry as dying for something to eat. I can’t really say I’m lacking in something to eat … Let’s just say, I need more.

Not more on my plate — I’m sure you can agree we all have too much on our plates — but simply something exciting. A restaurant is more than a place to sit, eat, drink and be. Not a culinary adventure around every corner but a respite from our everyday. We break from the norm of cooking at home, living in our cocoons.

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