Featured Recipe

Market fresh cuisine is an idea that has taken Canada by storm. All about cooking with top-quality local, and often organic, ingredients, it’s become de rigueur in restaurant kitchens across the country. Home-grown produce that’s bursting with flavour has fired the imaginations of chefs and restaurant-goers alike. Picture a plate artfully dressed with produce featuring a palette of bright colours and delicious flavours. This year’s pick of Maverick Chefs has not only pushed the culinary envelope when it comes to creating inspired fare, they’ve tossed it aside completely.

Growing fruits and vegetables in Canada is no walk in the park. With long winters, floods and drought, digging up fresh local produce year-round is an exercise in character building. Lucky for us, these seven chefs are ready and willing to take on the challenge: Ray Bear at his eponymous Ray Bear Restaurant in Halifax, Roger Mooking at Kultura and Nyood in Toronto and host of Everyday Exotic on the Food Network, Jeff Kreklau at Suede Lounge in Edmonton, Andrea Carlson at Bishop’s in Vancouver, Matthew and Jennifer Brearley at Castlegarth in Ottawa, and Jeremy Charles at Atlantica in St. John’s.

Michael Howell is in the vanguard of a new breed of fine chefs in Nova Scotia. His passion for wine and food manifested itself early. He is a Nova Scotia native who, in typical fashion, had to “go down the road” to earn his spurs. After graduating from Dalhousie University in 1983, he went on to become an honours graduate of the Cooking and Hospitality Institute of Chicago. Subsequently, Michael served his apprenticeship at the Everest Room in Chicago under renowned French Chef, Jean Joho. He remembers a real highlight of that period was cooking for the legendary Paul Bocuse, who is perhaps best known as the leading light of the Nouvelle Cuisine movement and widely acknowledged as one of the greatest chefs of the era. Howell went on to chef positions in New York City, Detroit, Toronto, and the Bahamas.

As he continued to advance his career, Michael nursed the desire to return to his native province. He became increasingly convinced that Nova Scotia was a fertile field ripe for the cultivation of world class gastronomy. He was encouraged in this belief by the development of the local wine culture. As the region’s wines began to win accolades in national and international competitions, Michael sensed that big things were starting to happen and he wanted to be in on the ground floor. Nova Scotia, with its abundance of fresh seafood, fresh produce and now a budding fine local wine culture, beckoned him home. He settled on Wolfville in the heart of the fertile Annapolis Valley, which is also home to a growing number of vineyards and wineries. Here, together with his wife, Mary Harwell, he established Tempest World Cuisine in April 2003. The Tempest philosophy is to marry the best of local foods with truly international cuisine. Howell’s maverick interpretation of this idea rapidly established the Tempest as one of the top restaurants in the Atlantic region.

Are we there yet? The splendour of wine country has too often been subject to a plane ride to another continent. In recent times it's moved closer but still lies south of the border. Today we see the fruit of our labours being built around us. It's to these temples of wine that we take you.

While on the trail of Canada’s maverick chefs, I told my grandmother I’d been thinking about the burnt-orange Ford Maverick she drove when I was five. “Oh”, she said emphatically, “that car did just what they promised — it would go anywhere.” She’s right. Though I was very young, I recall adventuring in the Maverick, the noise and vibration from the turn of the throaty engine and the warm prairie wind whipping hair into my eyes on summer days. With my body buckled safely in the passenger seat, the car went places my little mind could only dream existed (though my grandmother reminds me that most of our adventures occurred within fifty km of home). The car was called a Maverick for a reason. So are the six chefs you’re about to discover.

This year’s mavs are Melissa Craig of the Bearfoot Bistro in Whistler, Martin Picard of Au Pied de Cochon in Montreal, Sean Furlong of Dayboat Restaurant on Prince Edward Island, Giuseppe di Gennaro of Capo in Calgary, Steve Vardy of the Whalesbone in Ottawa and Ricardo Larrivee, Radio-Canada and Food Network host.

If you haven’t been fortunate enough to cross paths with these chefs already, get out the map and mark the spots across the country where they can be found, doing what they do best. The mavericks don’t represent cuisine in our country that pushes boundaries; they have no boundaries. They’re driven by passion and limited creatively only by their imaginations. They share a desire to use fresh, local, seasonal ingredients that celebrate their unique regions. It’s amazing what they’ve discovered within a small radius of their base.

One evening this summer I was trying to cook Thai food in Cairo and I wondered how a city of sixteen million could go without lemongrass. I thought of other food I missed back home. I realized it was more than the beautiful fish, the fresh produce and the organic meat I was after, it was also the inspiring chefs and their restaurants. I missed the total experience and charm of entering a space where every inch is part of a signature, a feeling and finesse that runs throughout a place. So upon my return, I set out to find just this: chefs who have not only innovated with their food but also designed the restaurants they cook in to suit their personalities.

The three maverick chefs featured here approach food, space and design in completely different ways. Le Club Chasse et Pêche is minimal and refined, with its classic logo gracing every surface; Chambar encapsulates the vitality of a young city in its play between raw and polished; at Les Cabotins, the food changes daily, always staying eccentric and spontaneous — just like its decor.

Related Articles