Tidings Magazine

Its location on the western edge of the Iberian Peninsula, a weak economy in the early 1900s and a military dictatorship that lasted for almost forty years essentially put Portugal in self-imposed isolation for most of the twentieth century. Without outside intervention, vineyards were left to their own devices —at a time when other European countries were playing Twister to see who could plant the most international varietals.

This is not to say that Portuguese wines were completely forgotten. Port and Madeira continued to thrive. And the semi-sparkling pink wines known under the Mateus, Casal Mendes and Lancers labels — a great wine-marketing success story onto themselves — managed to flourish through the turbulent times.

Even today, now that it’s fully part of the European Union and has complete access to everything wine-and-grape fashionable, Portugal still embraces its heritage and concentrates on native grapes — at last count some 500 or so. For reds, the top dog is Touriga Nacional, the backbone of Port and of increasing amounts of powerful, dry reds. Tinta Roriz (aka Aragonez, aka Spain’s Tempranillo) works well on its own, but is often blended, providing a D. Wade touch to Touriga’s Shaq.

For whites, Alvarinho may be the most famous grape in Vinho Verde, but it only occupies a small percentage of the vineyards. Lourriero, the other white grape of the northern area of the country has come out of the woodwork and is garnering much praise for its elegance and freshness.

Encruzado is only found in Dão (east of Barraida), where it yields high-quality wines. The aromatic Bical is at home both in Dão and Bairrada. And in southern Alentejo, Anatao Vaz sits on a pedestal, often blended with Arinto to give some freshness.

The other distinctive factor of Portugal is its climate. With temperatures that range from hot to torrid, low yields and concentrated berries are generally the norm, which translates into quality wines. Indigenous has never tasted so good.