Wine Reviews

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When my daughter returned from her first trip to Hawaii a couple of weeks back, I asked: “Apart from the weather, the sunsets, palm trees, coconuts, pineapples, black sand beaches and terrifying rivers of molten volcanic lava sliding by your feet and hissing into the sea, what really blew your mind?”

Sushi,” she said. “We ate sushi made with SPAM!” (And yes, I believe she actually made the point in capital letters, something that I understand manufacturer Hormel Foods really like us to do when SPAM gets a mention.)

“You must be kidding?” I said, immediately visualizing chunky jelly in alarming shades of pink. “You had sushi made with SPAM?”

Like many foods that come from cans, SPAM has had an on-and-off bad rap over the last 60-plus years — Something Posing As Meat was one cruel degustation of the acronym — even if many of us, from time to time, have fried up a slice or two to accompany a couple of farm-fresh eggs for breakfast. But learning that this staple of K-rations had ended up in that now-universal package of edible elegance blew my mind. No offence to SPAM’s ongoing meaty magic, but it simply didn’t seem to juxtapose well with slices of albacore, nori, wasabi and soy.

The gods of fishing are fickle. One day you can catch a dozen, including a 22-pound lake trout, and the next you’re skunked. The only constant on our annual fishing trip is the wine.

For 13 years now I have been fishing somewhere in northern Canada  (barbless hooks, catch and release) with five guys — Steve, Sam, Art, Harold and Larry, who stood in for the late, lamented Leo. Every year it was Leo who showed me the Palomar knot to attach a swivel to the line; and every year in the interim I would forget how to tie it. Leo died in February and without his tutelage I tied it. He must have been guiding my fingers — wherever he is.

This year our trip took us to Peterson’s Point Lake Lodge, a 90-minute floatplane ride due north of Yellowknife and 50 miles below the Arctic Circle. They say about the North West Territories that if you put all the mosquitoes on one end of a balance and all the caribou on the other, the mosquitoes will outweigh the caribou. Battalions of them, along with black flies and horse flies lie in ambush for you if you don’t spray yourself and wear a bug jacket.

Any tips on how to read a wine label?

Talk about blind tasting. If you’re having trouble reading a wine label, it might be time to put down the bottle and feel your way to your eye doctor for a checkup. All kidding aside (at least for this paragraph); I do acknowledge that with the way some winemakers play with their panels you have to be nothing short of a U.N. translator to figure out what they’re trying to say.

Describing the ins-and-outs of each county’s labelling rules would take most of this magazine, so suffice it to say that there are two design camps: Those pitching their tents in the Old World and those in the New World.

The Old Worlders (basically anyone famous for pressing grapes into vino before Elvis died) are all about location, location, location, and celebrity. Over centuries of working their terroir off, vineyard owners in the likes of France, Italy and Spain began to create a geographical hierarchy worth bragging about so “place” was a key label element. Those particularly good at their liquid craft slapped their family name, or the name of their swanky mansion, above their address.

There is a legend in China about the origin of tea. It is said that Bodhidharma — the Indian missionary who brought Zen Buddhism to China — was having trouble staying awake during meditation. He was a mysterious old man, prone to snubbing Emperors and staring at walls for years at a time. Frustrated with his drowsiness, he fetched his knife. With two quick jerks, he removed his eyelids. He flung the gory flaps to the ground where they magically took root, growing into the first tea bushes.

I have some issues with this story from the perspective of evolutionary biology, but it does conceal a kernel of truth. There is a long association between tea and eastern religions. The Buddhist monks of the T’ang Dynasty (618-907 CE) popularized tea as a beverage with the miraculous power to relax the mind while stimulating the body (thereby keeping you awake during meditation, but not too awake).

When T’ang Buddhists travelled to other parts of Asia to preach, they brought a taste for tea with them. This religious association is still strong in Korea and Japan, where an appreciation for green tea is imbued with a sense of veneration that achieves its highest expression in elaborate tea ceremonies. Not only is the taste of tea a pleasure (as with wine), but the ritual of sharing it is an art-form with all the choreography of an opera.

The concept of the mobile food vendor is not new. In the early 1900s, Greek and southern Italian immigrants sold fruit from pushcarts on city streets. Not long after, hot dog carts entered the scene. Greasy spoon trucks selling burgers and fries were staples at summer fairs. Remember the lunch trucks in the 1970s and 1980s that would travel from office parking lot to office parking lot in industrial business parks selling pre-packaged, plastic-wrapped sandwiches, salads, potato chips, and pop? And, of course, there were the chimes of the ice cream truck rolling down suburban streets.

But in recent years, mobile dining has brought unpretentious, “gourmet” street food to the masses. All over North America, food lovers and curious diners are flocking to roving food trucks and mobile “carts” offering fresh, local, and often healthy foods beyond conventional catering truck fare. Think Malaysian mint chicken and braised lamb cheek sandwiches for under 10 dollars and in many cases less than five dollars (we had roast duck tacos with mango salsa for three dollars).

And thanks to the rise of Twitter, these mobile food outlets have found a marketing niche, allowing them to instantly broadcast their changing locations and maintain a following. They tweet their locations and their loyal techie-foodie customers start lining up within minutes. It seems to be a natural fit, as the mobile food vendors embody the short-and-sweet nature of their primary promotional tool.

Steering clear of bullfights in Spain is as tricky as side-stepping doggy doo-doo on Paris streets. With bullrings in every city, the fights are as much a part of life in Spain as hockey is in Canada (don’t get me started on comparisons). I immersed myself in Andalusian culture by watching a bullfight, then wolfing down beefy tapas while quaffing companionable wines. To all three, I say, “Ole!”

The bullring was a few kilometres north of Seville at 5000-acre Lora Sangrán Ranch (also called Dehesa La Calera), where bulls are raised expressly for fighting. I toured the ranch, then watched the fight with owner Joaquín Sangrán, whose family has been in the bovine business for generations.

Blond bullfighter Juan Pedro Garcia wore boots, high-waisted pants with suspenders, and a crisp baby-pink shirt that looked like it had never seen sweat, let alone blood. His yellow and fuchsia cape was casually draped over one arm, like he was going to a Halloween party and not facing possible injury, pain or (worse), disgrace in the ring. Calerito (his bullfighter name) was only 10 years old, but he strutted like a seasoned professional. Even though the so-called bull was a two-year-old cow, I was instantly nervous for Calerito, as she was big enough to do damage. And had horns. And looked seriously vexed.

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