Written by Rosemary Mantini | 24 February 2010

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Here, then, is the crux of the matter: how does one extract a sufficient amount of oil from a tiny seed? Easy. Well, it’s easy once the pomace has been dried and the seeds have been separated from the skins. Then all one needs is a hefty quantity. According to Janke, “approximately 7 lbs of seeds result in one 100 ml bottle of oil.” From that point there are two ways to squeeze out the goodness — chemical solvent and cold pressing. If you’ve come across oil that’s been expelled by the first method, you’ll notice it lacks considerably in the flavour department. Instead, go ahead and slather some over your body for perfectly soft, silky skin. No, it’s not some new kinky kind of fetish. Much of the world’s grape seed oil extracted chemically is destined for the cosmetics industry, anyway.

Cold-pressed oil, however, is the apple of the foodie’s eye. The droplets of green gold that spill out from that first cold press offer the best quality. Most people might anticipate that the flavour of grape seed oil is completely neutral. Not so. Like a winemaker, a talented oil master can tease out a variety of aromas and tastes depending on the quality of the seeds and how they’re combined. Janke suggests, “The flavours are dependent on the level of ripeness. The riper the grape, the better the oil. However, red grape varieties do tend to provide richer flavours.” Joseph’s, on the other hand, goes to great lengths to blend “all grape seeds, red and white varieties, so all the oil is flavoured similarly.”

Technically speaking, grape seed oil is perfect for frying and baking because it won’t impart much in the way of extra flavours, and it has a very high smoke point (216˚C) — a detail coveted by cooks everywhere. But at $29 a pop at Stratus, $30 at Joseph’s, I’d suggest a more judicious use. Drizzle a bit over a slice of Brie or dress lightly grilled vegetables. Or follow in the footsteps of the Niagara locavores who take a teaspoon everyday for health. Unofficial reports claim that grape seed oil offers huge health benefits. According to the literature, it does everything from easing the pain of arthritis to reducing the risk of heart disease. You be the judge.

The future prospects of grape seed oil in Ontario look good. But for now its current low production rate limits it to the artisanal marketplace. Whether you’re seeking an epicurean eureka or a cure for what ails you, the green-gold liquid produced from our local wineries might be the ticket.