Greece Rising Up! - Day 4 & 5

Written by Evan Saviolidis | 27 September 2010

Brothers Nico and Costa Lazaridi have established competing wineries in this region. Chateau Nico Lazaridi’s Magic Mountain 2009, a six month barrel aged Sauvignon Blanc earned 88 points.  Domaine Costa Lazaridi’s Amethystos White, a Sauvignon Blanc/Assyrtiko/Semillion blend garnered the same. The Amethystos Red, a blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot and 5% Limnio, earned 87 points.

Another winery which impressed me was Pavlidis. The 2009 Thema White (89), 2007 Thema Red (88), 2009 Assyrtiko (88) and the super duper 2007 Syrah (91) were all delicious. Other wines of note were the 2008 Oenegenesis Skylights Rose (87) and the 2008 Wine Art Idisma Drios Chardonnay (86).

That evening, our local guide, Kleo, took us to one of his favorite restaurants, Taverna Anestis.  An assault of food, family style, is sent our way. Greeks like to eat. Tzatziki, taramousalata (caviar dip), eggplant dip, Russian salad, horta, horiatiki (village salad), dolmades, paidakia (grilled lamb), a local version of haggis (our Scottish Sommelier and travel mate Jamie Drummond went crazy for this), souvlaki, kefte (Greek mini hamburgers), french fries with cheese, and Greek mille feuille/baklava for dessert. Our wine, a vertical of older Naoussas going back to the 90s stood the test of time, pairing well with the hearty feast. Oh, and yes, Tsipouro was served once again. And once again, I refrained as I knew that there was early flight to Crete the next morning.

Day 5
A dawn wakeup call was the clue that our entourage had to catch our Olympic Airlines flight to Heraklion, the capital of Crete. We only had one day on the island, so after checking into the stunning Galaxy Hotel, we head downstairs for a tasting of thirty producers of Cretan wine. We learn some quick facts before starting. The island produces 20% of the entire Greek production. There are 4 OPAP regions- Peze, Dafnes, Arhanes and Sitia as well as a whole slew of grapes I have never heard of or tasted before. One of these is the red varietal Mandilaria, which bottled on its own is possibly the harshest grape I have ever come across.

My favorites reds of the tasting were the Mediterra Winery Mirambelo 2007 (70% Kotsifali/ 30% Mandalaria-88 points), the Tamiloaki Ekti Ekdos 2006 (Kotsifali, C.S. and Merlot- 87), Diamantakis Diamantopetra 2008 ( Syrah/Mandalaria -88), and the ‘dead ringer for an aged Barolo’ tandem of the 1998 and 2000 Oikonomoy from Domaine Economou. Both are blends of 80% Liatico and 20% Mandalaria.

As for whites, the Diamantakis Prinos 2009 (Malvasia/Chardonnay- 88 points), the Idaia Winery Vilana 2009 (100% Vilana – 88), Silva Daskalaki Enstikto White (50% Chardonnay/50% Vitiano-89) and Strataridakis Spinas Muscat (88) were my preference.

After the tasting, we were given a couple of hours to explore Heraklion. Exploring also meant lunch. Our posse of five headed to the waterfront, within full view of the ancient Venetian fort. Our destination: my favorite Gyro shop.  The pitas were piled with high fatty pork, french fries, tzatziki, tomatoes and onions.  Of course we had to wash our sandwiches down with Alfa beer and blue (can) Fanta, a Greek-only non- carbonated version of the famous orange pop.

A short stroll later and we found ourselves in Lion Square next to the Morisini fountain. This meant one thing: bougatsa. Said to have been brought to Heraklion by Armenian refugees, bougtasa is a phyllo pastry stuffed with either a salty cheese called myzithra or with custard, then topped with sugar. We choose the latter and asked for cinnamon also. Bliss! Of course, no afternoon snack would be complete without a frappé, the national non-alcoholic drink. Take some instant coffee, add sugar, milk and water, then shake and pour over ice.

We return to the hotel, grab a quick shower and change of clothes, and board the bus to Alagani, the most mountainous village in the appellation of Peza. Lyrarakis winery is our destination. The 44 year old house originally sold their wines in bulk to other wineries all over Greece. They converted to estate bottling in 1992. The winery is also responsible for saving the ancient Plyto and Dafni grapes, which almost disappeared in the 80s. My favorite whites were their Vidiano 2009 (87) and Dafni 2009 (86). As for red, it was the Kotsifali (87).

After departing Lyrarakis, we drove to the eighty year old winery of Douloufakis in the appellation of Dafnes. Nikolas Douloufakis, the current torch bearer did his schooling in Alba before taking over the reins at the family homestead. His Aspros Lagos White (91), a 100% Vidiano, aged in a combination of acacia wood and French oak blew me  away with its concentration, length and bouquet of vanilla, apple, citrus, flowers, spice and banana. Equally impressive is its confrère, the Aspros Lagos Red (90).  Made from Cabernet Sauvignon, it is an opaque wine with aromas of cedar, cassis, plums and spice. My other selection was the 2009 Liatico (88), for its smoke, raisins, plum and cedar personality.

Dinner was in the mountains of Peza with many of the winemakers we had met earlier in the day. If the night before was a feast, this was excess. Dakos (Cretan bruschetta), beef and rice stuffed zucchini flowers/vine leaves, boiled greens/zucchini, horiatiki salad, a stew of  snails/tomato/onion/bulgar wheat, braised rabbit, fried veal liver, roasted mouton with rice, roasted goat with tomatoes, and beef en papilotte with lemon potatoes was the hedonism. After the liposuction, there was a departing toast with Raki, or as I like to call it, lighter fluid. Being of partial Cretan decent, I was compelled to join in. Ouch.