Written by Carolyn Evans-Hammond | 09 February 2011

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21 Wines Under $21
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I taste a lot of sock squeezings disguised as wine that sell for way too much dosh but I don’t write them up. Nor do other critics. We tend to focus on what’s good instead. How badly do you really want to read about a $50 bottle of wine that tastes like under-ripe raspberries crushed in someone’s armpit, steeped in black tea for 32 hours, and then strained through a pair of used boxer briefs?

I assure you, under par wines are out there and, though they’re annoying to come across at trade tastings where the spittoon is a discreet saving grace, nothing’s worse than paying good money for a poorly made, past-its-best, flawed, or just plain overrated bottle. Reverse that and spend, say, less than $21 on a wine that can make you believe in God, and we’re talking wine appreciation.

There are serious deals to be had if you know where to look. Any of the following wines that cost less than $21 could sell for much more. They tend to hail from reliable producers known for rigorous quality control from vine to bottle. So this list does two things: it points out best buys, and it reveals some of the most trusted names in the business.

Whites

1. William Fèvre Chablis Les Champs Royaux 2008, Burgundy, France ($20)
Killer wine with classic aromas of wet stones and flavours of pear, pebbles and cooked apple. Sleek mouth feel. Medium-bodied with 12.5% alcohol.

Domaine William Fèvre is a traditional Chablis producer with a winemaking history in the region that dates back 250 years. Wedded to the concept of terroir, this maker produces focused wines centered on minerality and freshness.

2. Chavet Menetou-Salon Blanc 2008, Loire, France ($19)
If you like Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé, you’ll love this wine. You get all the flinty minerality, lacy acidity and delicate-tight citrus fruit of these more famous appellations at a fraction of the price. Medium-bodied.

The Chavet family has been tending vines in Menetou-Salon since the 17th century. Set beside Sancerre, Menetou-Salon offers many of the same characteristics as the more famous appellation at a better price.

3. Château St Jean Chardonnay 2008, Sonoma County, California, USA ($18)
Full-bodied and beautifully integrated aromas and flavours of crème caramel, sweet melon and cooked pear with an appealing weight in the mouth.
Chateau St Jean — pronounced “Jean” as in “blue jean” — is highly regarded for its single-vineyard Chardonnay. The entry-level wine noted above is a nod to that acknowledged expertise.

4. Villa Maria Private Bin Sauvignon Blanc 2009, Marlborough, New Zealand ($16)
When I crave Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc with its hallmark full-throttle exuberance of gooseberry, key lime and grapefruit, I reach for this wine. It’s consistently delish with silky texture, crisp acidity and impeccable balance. Medium-bodied.

Regarded as one of the leading producers in New Zealand, Villa Maria consistently spins out some of the best Marlborough Sauvignon Blancs but also makes excellent Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris and Chardonnay.

5. Yalumba Y Series Viognier 2008, Barossa Valley, Australia ($18)
With rich flavours of full-bodied peach edged with musk, honeysuckle and cinnamon, this wine offers an almost oily texture balanced by cleansing acidity. Terrific wine for the money.

Yalumba is Australia’s oldest family owned winery, founded in 1849. It is one of the world’s leading Viognier producers, styled after those of Condrieu, in the Rhône region of France.

6. Cave Spring Estate Bottled Riesling 2008, Beamsville Bench VQA, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario ($18)
Quite a refined, stylish wine. Wet stones, aniseed, white peach and floral notes imbue the nose and palate before finishing with a palate-cleansing bitter twist of lime, and dash of sea salt.

Cave Springs is considered one of Canada’s leading makers of Riesling, producing a world-class style that is distinctively elegant and mineral.