A Lighter Shade of Red

Written by Evan Saviolidis | 12 May 2009

Roast beef and Cab, osso bucco with Barolo, cassoulet and Cahors, or an over the top Aussie Shiraz paired with your preference of slow roasted quadraped are but some of the many options available to drive the damp spring chill from our bones.

Yes indeed, rich reds are certainly the choice for the table. But what about their lighter confrères? Just because there is a chill in the air, does that mean light reds should be set aside? In fact, when it comes to appetizers, softer reds are the better option. The simple reason is that serious alcohol and serious tannins become obtrusive. Imagine, if you will, a monster Châteauneuf-du-Pape with seafood, salad or even a simple plate of pasta in a tomato sauce. It really does not work. The same rule applies to cheese after the meal. Milk and tannins simply do not mix (think curdle). Not to mention the deleterious effects of drinking wine with 15 per cent-plus alcohol throughout the meal.

So when planning your next meal, make sure to use a deft hand when reaching for your first bottle and have a good grip on the decanter for the main course.

89 Colinas de São Lourenco Tinto 2005, Bairrada, Portugal ($15.75)

Coming from the warm Bairrada region, this wine is a blend of Touriga Nacional, Baga and Merlot. For Bairrada, it is a lighter breed. But light does not mean thin. Its black colour is the harbinger of an equally dark nose of plum, cassis, smoke, violets and liquorice. In the mouth there is a concentrated core of black fruits, leather and earth with close to excellent length. Drink it over the next 2 to 3 years.

88 J.Lohr Merlot Paso Robles 2006, Paso Robles, California, United States ($16.95)
A subdued California Merlot. Nonetheless, there is still more than enough ripe berry fruit and stuffing to make this a serious candidate for the dinner table. Lovely jammy berry fruit, namely blackberries and raspberries caress the palate on the lengthy finish. This is sexy stuff, with no hard edges.

88 Kourtaki Mavrodaphne de Patras, Patras, Greece ($13.95)

Mavrodaphne is Greece’s answer to Port. Made from the grape of the same name, it is fortified during fermentation. After which, during aging, it is blended like a Sherry, so that the new wine might be educated by the older wines. Taste-wise, it stands somewhere between a ruby and tawny port, meaning that there is both dark berry fruits and raisins as well as candied fruit and nuts on the nose. The palate shows marked sweetness and very good length. Chill this baby down, and serve it with blue cheeses by the fireplace. A unique wine that is priced right!

88 Fontanafredda Briccotondo Barbera 2007, Piedmont, Italy ($15.95)
A smart use of oak here. The cocoa, hazelnut and spice weave between the cherries, strawberries and plum, helping to carry the finish. Barbera’s typical acidity shines through at the end. Make this your wine of choice with ravioli in a marinara sauce.

87 Kir-Yianni Paranga 2007, Macedonia, Greece ($14.50)

This assemblage of Xinomavro, Syrah and Merlot offers a rather interesting nose of plums, cherries, leather, mint and medicinal properties. The finish is lengthy with a definite earthy tone underscoring the berry fruit. Tannins are present, so take the edge off and serve it with a salty cheese such as kefalotiri or Romano.

87 Creekside Cabernet 2007, Niagara ($13.95)

A very nice wine with an equally nice price tag! Light to medium body, this red offers significant aspects of dark fruits, herbs, liquorice and smoke. The tannins are still youthful, so it can be cellared for a couple of years. Drink it over the next 3 to 4 years.

87 Doña Paula Malbec 2006, Argentina ($16.95)
The oak is very prevalent, here, as the chocolate covered coffee bean is the first to ascend the nasal passage, after which, blueberries, cherries and plums follow in procession. The finish is lengthy and balanced, including the 14.5% alcohol.

87 Raimat Abadia Crianza 2005, Costers del Segre, Spain ($14.95)

Costers del Segre is a warm and arid area in north eastern Catalunia. These conditions have given this blend of Cab Sauv, Merlot and Tempranillo an overripe personality of black cherries, raspberries, plum and mint. This combines with cocoa, vanilla and spicy notes from French and American barrel aging. Very good length with some heat.

86 Flat Rock Cellars Red Twisted 2007, Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara ($19.95)

Twisted is a singular blend of Pinot Noir, Syrah and Chardonnay. It possesses a light ruby colour and a bouquet of cherries, vanilla and black pepper. Tannins are definitely present, so I recommend pairing it with some grilled quail or Italian salumi to soften the edge. Medium plus length.

86 Reif Estate Cabernet/Merlot 2007, Niagara ($13.95)

Medium cherry in colour, this is a melange of plums, cherries, violets, vanilla and herbs. The palate is ripe with a cherry vanilla cola flavour and medium length. Enjoy it now to 2011.