Written by Rosemary Mantini | 28 January 2011

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Preserves
crostata di marmelada
lemon confit
strawberry margarita preserve
red wine and apple jelly
roasted garlic jelly
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Do preserves conjure up memories of your grandmother’s pantry lined with jars of strawberry jam? Maybe, on a frigid morning in the middle of winter, it’s the taste that instantly transports you back to those long, warm days of summer. Preserves, like wine, are time capsules. They hold within the jar memories of each vintage — personal events, recipe changes and days of scorching heat and rainstorms.

What are preserves, anyway? It seems that no one can agree on what kind of product the term actually identifies. Does it denote whole fruits that are suspended in jelly? Does it just describe fruit that’s mashed without added water or sugar? What about pickles and chutneys? Funny enough, it’s the Canadian Department of Justice that defines what preserves are. Imagine a bunch of black-robed judges sitting around a table sampling as they argue the finer points of jam, jelly and marmalade. In any case, said judges define preserves as any fruit or vegetable that’s processed with water and sugar. Fine. Then what makes jam different from jelly, fruit butter and marmalade? Well, that distinction is found in the form the fruit takes when it’s packed into the jar.

• Jam contains whole or chopped fruit boiled in water and some kind of sweetener.
• Jelly is made from just fruit juice cooked in water and sweetener.
• Marmalade is a concoction of peel, pulp and fruit juice boiled in water and sweetener.
• Fruit butter boasts puréed fruit simmered with water and sweetener.

Not to belabour the point, but did I mention the addition of sweetener? If this all seems a little too saccharine for you, there’s a simple solution: cut it out. In a good year, the heat of the sun will encourage fruits and vegetables to produce just the right amount of sweetness.

It doesn’t take much to indulge in a little preserving magic — jars, lids, a pot and, oh right, lots of fruit and, yes, even veggies. Despite its popularity, rhubarb is not the only vegetable fit for preserve-making. Right now, my fridge is chilling a jar of very delectable carrot and orange butter. Combining fruit with beets or zucchini makes for a yummy and unique spread, too. Add a grate or two of dark chocolate for depth and mystery. The more varied the combination of produce, the more interesting the flavour.

Farmers’ Markets are overflowing with fresh produce at this time of year. But, if you don’t have that option, or you can’t find strawberries in September, the freezer section of any grocery store is always chock full of fruit and vegetables picked at their prime.

I love runny preserves. I love how they pour easily from the spoon, spread smoothly over the bread, then drip down the sides when I take a bite. But, if your personal preference leans toward preserves so thick you can cut them with a knife, then make pectin your friend. Although most peoples’ experiences with this gelling wonder come in the form of a box filled with powder, it does occur naturally in some fruits and vegetables, like apples, oranges and quince. Hence why those fruits are often mixed with other fruits low in pectin, like strawberries and grapes. Add it according to the manufacturer’s instructions, though you don’t actually need it to make thick preserves. Letting the mixture simmer and reduce will give you similar results.

Probably the single most terrifying part of preserve making is the canning process. Just forget, for a moment, everything you’ve heard about botulism or explosions of fruit and glass. As long as the jars are sterilized in boiling water for 10 minutes, all will be well. If you’re bent on storing preserves in the pantry like your grandmother did, then the filled jars will have to undergo a secondary boiling and cooling until all you hear is the ping from each lid as it seals. If, like me, you prefer a shortcut to gourmet paradise, then all you need do is look to your freezer. Once the preserves have cooled, pop them into the icebox for up to six months.

There are a thousand and one ways to use preserves. You can do the classic and spread them on hot, toasted crumpets dripping with butter, or try out different PB&J combinations. How about a sundae topped with a dollop of the fruit concoction? Use a spoonful or two as a filling for doughnuts or muffins. Blend savoury and sweet. Make preserves the primary ingredient in a glaze for beef or salmon. The sky’s the limit. Have fun with it, and good eating!