Wine Reviews

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Are there any wines that match well with chocolate?

Some things just sound like they should go together: beer and pretzels, tequila and lime juice, me and Penelope Cruz. Truth is; many unions that look good on paper are a train wreck waiting to happen, and chocolate and wine a perfect example.

Over the centuries, chocolate’s relationship with wine has become sort of an affinity cliché (almost on par with how supposedly great a match wine is with cheese). Both chocolate and cheese are palate-coating eatables with a variety of personalities that can wreak havoc on a liquid partner.

Chocolate’s thick sweetness is its own personal landmine that sits between you and a decent wine pairing. The trick is to pick juice that at least offers a comparable level of sweetness, density and, if possible, mocha in its flavour profile.

If your confectionary selection is dark (with a bittersweet or semisweet sensibility) think red wines made with Zinfandel, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon (from the New World). A rich Pinot Noir would also work, as would a late bottled vintage or aged tawny port.

Lighter Pinot Noir and Merlot make a nice match with milkier chocolate, as do sticky dessert whites and fragrant, middle-of-the-road German Rieslings. Since I’m a bubbly fanatic from way back, I don’t mind how drier sparkling wines play with chocolate (especially when it’s white). That said; the fresh fruit of a slightly sweeter Asti style from Italy is really a better companion.

I like drinking on the cutting edge. What’s going to be the next big grape trend?

I’ve rubbed my crystal ball and, believe it or not, when it comes to red fruit it predicts that Shiraz/Syrah (a grape so nice they named it twice) will shine in 2010. I know what you’re thinking — what’s so hip about a grape that’s been used and abused by Down Under winemakers for the last twenty years? Well, here’s the deal: The wines from the southern (which blend with Syrah) and northern (where Syrah is king) Rhône Valley have been the only things close to cool coming out of France in recent memory and consumers should finally take notice early in the New Year.

Also, great price-fighting versions of S/S from Chile, Argentina and South Africa will be invading your local liquor stores in the coming months and that will set the stage for the grape’s second act.

What’s the difference between port and sherry?

It’s like comparing apples and oranges, dogs and cats, The Beatles and The Rolling Stones. Except for a central theme (in this case fortification), they have absolutely nothing in common.

Let’s start with port. No matter what any other country insists on calling their substandard junk, port only comes from Portugal. It’s made by introducing a distilled grape spirit (a.k.a. brandy) to a good old-fashioned red wine (though there are some white versions too) to arrest the fermentation process. The finished product is sweet and comes in a variety of spectacular styles (based on vintage, age and blending), too numerous to mention here.

Sherry, on the other hand, is made with white wine that has had the grape spirit added after fermentation. That means that all sherries are initially dry. Sweeter examples have their flavour profiles manipulated to create a broader spectrum of personalities.

What makes Italian Super Tuscan wines so super?

Well, it isn’t because of their ability to leap tall wine racks in a single bound. It’s more a nod to their muscular physique and the strength behind their flavour punch. Not to mention the fact that they fought the law and won.

Like many of their European neighbours, the Italians laid down a lot of red tape governing the creation of wine. You may be able to drink a beer on the street in Rome, but don’t you dare think about making vino with grapes not indigenous to your region, if you want to keep your precious quality designation.

Innovative winemakers in Tuscany who wanted to dabble with grapes like Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot — or age their juice in barrels made with foreign wood — were out of luck according to their official D.O.C. regs.

How the heck did Argentina suddenly become such a superstar wine producer?

Practice, my friend, lots and lots of practice. While it may seem like Argentina has come out of nowhere it’s been refining the art of winemaking for over four centuries. I know; where have they been all our lives? Well, even though it’s the fifth largest continuous vino producer in the world, local demand consumed most of it up until the early 2000s. The average Argentinean used to suck back about eight times his North American counterpart until international investment and fading New World competition (and I’m talking about you, Australia) made exporting a lucrative reality.

So how’d they hit the big time so fast? Well, let’s start with the price. It’s hard to find a better value on the naked store shelves these days than a bottle from Argentina. I dare you to try. Add to that their balance of New World flavour with Old World character that sets them apart from everyone else, especially the palate pounding Aussies and generally chug-a-luggable Chileans. Then there are the grape varieties they’ve adopted. Malbec is king for now, but Bonarda, Tannat, Torrontés and Syrah are all easy to pronounce, taste unique and are each on deck to become the Next Big Thing.

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