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It may be the new mantra for the modern imbiber: Drink less, but drink better. The quest for luxury is being felt across all sectors of the consumer-goods industry, and nowhere is this more evident than in the ever-competitive Ontario suds business. While the province’s “Big Three” brewers (all now owned by foreign parent conglomerates, thanks to the recent purchase of Sleeman Breweries by Japan’s Sapporo Breweries) are not quite crying in their beer, there has been a distinctive shift away from the middle-ground brews that these guys pump out.

“No really. We’ll taste one more thing. Do we have time? There’s this lemon beer I think you should try.”

I couldn’t believe my ears but it was true. Someone had made a beer with lemon essence and the Pavlovian reaction had caught up to me. I needed to try it out.

Microbrewers are really something. Their sense of adventure is overwhelmingly true-north-strong-and-free. Not only are these nuts crazy enough to go up against the big guys, they are doing it with a strange mix of brewing chutzpah, unusual wheat and hops, no preservatives and pasteurization to kill the taste, and a true Canadian love of beer. The Mackenzie brothers would be proud.

No longer found only in major cosmopolitan centres, Japanese restaurants and sushi bars are popping up all over the place, even in staid Atlantic Canada. Little wonder then, that Japan’s best known alcoholic beverage, Sake, is finally getting some well-deserved attention. Until quite recently, the Sakes available here were mostly garden variety stuff, at the lower end of the quality spectrum. You might have tasted one or two of these, perhaps served warm at a Japanese restaurant, and not been overly impressed. Today, though, Sake is beginning to gain respect as more complex and interesting versions are finding their way into the country.

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