Tidings Magazine

There are probably a fair number of you out there who have never heard of the Savagnin grape. Don’t worry – you’re not alone. In fact, you certainly would be hard-pressed to find a bottle of wine made exclusively from Savagnin in your local liquor store. But, this elusive grape has an interesting and somewhat mysterious past.

Savagnin is a variety of white grape. Grown primarily in the Jura region of eastern France, its fame results from the fact that it’s used almost exclusively to make Vin Jaune (yellow wine). The plants are hardy enough that the grapes can be left to ripen on the vine until December. After pressing, it’s left to age in casks under a flor, which is a type of yeast that forms a film that lies flat on the surface of the wine, for a minimum of six years, giving it a very sherry-like quality. The resulting wine tastes slightly briny with green olive and hints of toasted almond. (For more on Sherry, see "Sips 'N Bites," Tidings, April 2009.)

Most of the Savagnin that’s grown in France makes its way into Vin Jaune, but a small percentage adds its own particular aromatics to other wines. Read the labels closely and you’ll find it added to both sparkling and still wines. Ontario’s Hillebrand Winery, for example, is using it in its Trius White (see Final Word, Tidings, July 2009).

Here are two different types of fish that usually elicit the same wrinkled-nose reaction. But, if you can get past the strong aroma, you’ll find a wonderfully full flavoured treat for your taste buds. Anchovies and sardines are available in many different formats from fresh to paste depending on your needs.

There are a lot of good reasons to eat anchovies and sardines every once in a while. Both are high in heart friendly polyunsaturated fatty acids, so they can help lower cholesterol levels. They’re also a great source of essential vitamins and minerals. You may have heard that eating fish is not as healthy as we all thought it was because of the potentially high levels of toxins stored in the flesh. But thanks to their small size, anchovies and sardines tend to harbour less amounts of mercury, lead and other environmental toxins usually found floating in bodies of water.

Anchovies and sardines that have been stored in oil or salt can be rinsed in cold water. Gently separate the fillet from the backbone. Anchovies are small enough that they quickly melt when added to a hot pan. You’ll notice the piquant flavour without seeing its source. Anchovy paste can be used instead, but be aware that a little goes a long way.

Settled by Scottish stonemasons in the 1800s, the picturesque village of Elora, about an hour-and-a-half drive northwest of Toronto, is famous for its spectacular gorge, artisanal boutiques, restaurants and one of the few five-story grist mills still standing in Ontario. For gourmands, there’s The Village Olive Grove, a relatively new addition to the main drag. Specializing in estate-grown (and in many cases, organic) extra virgin olive oil and exotic vinegars, the shop carries flavours for all palates and budgets.

“Our inspiration came from where wine knowledge was twenty or thirty years ago when there was limited selection but many tasting events to educate consumers,” reveals The Village Olive Grove’s David Medeiros. “We believed that if we provided the same opportunity where people could try different extra virgin olive oils from different countries they would gain knowledge and feel comfortable buying a great extra virgin olive oil.”

True to his word, every oil and vinegar in the store is available for tasting including such stellar EVOOs as the buttery, herbal, vaguely tropical Castillo de Canena “First Day of Harvest” from Spain, the hard-to-find, fruity and intense Pasolivo from California and the green and peppery Il Palagio from the Tuscan estate of Gordon Sumner (aka Sting).

Visit www.thevillageolivegrove.com for more information, and stay tuned to Tidings for an upcoming story on Spain’s olive oil revolution.

With summer now in full swing, it’s easy to find lots of fresh, ripe fruits to enjoy. Visit a farmer’s market and pick up an extra basket or two of local fare. Turn the extra fruit into a refreshing sorbet. Add a few herbs to the mixture, and you’re done. Herbs? That’s right. Although herbs are typically added to savoury dishes, they actually add great complexity to fruit, too. Choose herbs that either complement the fruit’s natural flavour or contrast it. Use any herb you like from sweet basil or mint to licorice-like tarragon.

Although an ice cream maker can churn out a sorbet in no time, it isn’t actually necessary. Your freezer will work just as well. Just pour the sorbet mixture into a 9 x 13 inch pan, cover it and freeze until the sorbet has reached the desired consistency. Sorbets are usually served slightly soft. If you do have an ice cream maker, follow the manufacturer’s directions.

Here are four sorbet flavours you can try. Then come up with your own fruit and herb combinations.

Grapefruit-Basil Sorbet               Lemon-Tarragon Sorbet

Orange-Rosemary Sorbet          Melon-Mint Sorbet

Niagara Cooks wins Best Local Cookery Book In The World – Second Place!

Congratulations to Tidings contributor, Lynn Ogryzlo and food photographer, Jon Ogryzlo on their impressive win at the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards.

In November 2008, Niagara Cooks - From Farm to Table Cookbook won Best Local Food Cookbook in Canada. The awards ceremony was to be held in an undisclosed location on July 1st, 2009. At that time, the winners of the Best Local Food Cookbooks from 107 countries would converge to hear who had won Best In The World. In February 2009, the competition was reduced to four cookbooks out of the 107. Then on July 1st, at the gala awards ceremony at the Comédie-Française in Paris, France, it was announced that Niagara Cooks had won Second Place.

The best in the culinary world gathered to celebrate those who “cook with words”. “This is one of the most difficult categories in the competition”, said Edouard Cointreau, President of the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards, referring to the local food cookbook category where Niagara Cooks was placed. “There’s a lot of that going on these days”.

The summer 2009 issue of Best Health Magazine, a nation-wide Canadian publication, named Wolfville’s Tempest Restaurant as one four of Canada’s Healthiest Restaurants. The award was based on Tempest’s commitment to local, organic food. Chef and co-owner Michael Howell was also awarded Tidings Maverick Chefs award in 2006, and is currently featured in Tidings July 2009 issue.

Chef and co-owner Michael Howell was about his restaurant’s commitment to regional food. “Tempest is committed to preparing the best local fresh ingredients that result in a great dining experience. We do not eschew the flavours and techniques that create great cuisine, but if we can reduce unhealthy additives, make a dish completely vegan or prepare a six course completely gluten free menu for a keen diner à la minute, we can be proud of the recognition that Best Health bestows upon us. As a chef who believes inherently in the Slow Food Movement and its relevance in the restaurant sphere, I am as committed as ever to extol the virtues and health benefits of locally produced food.”

Tempest was again recognized as one of the best restaurants in Canada in the 2009-10 edition of Where to Eat in Canada. Tempest Restaurant is a member of Taste of Nova Scotia.